Niels Provos (Entries tagged as blacksmithing)

Cable Tantos

nospam@example.com (Niels Provos) — Sun, 14 Feb 2010 19:16:18 -0800

Although, I have made various attempts at forging knives, this tanto is the first knife I have completed. It's a shinogi-zukuri tanto with choji hamon. The steel was made from forge-welded high carbon cable. Originally, this was supposed to become a wakizashi, but due to a bad hammer blow when forging the sunobe, I had to fold it over and no longer had enough steel for a longer blade. As a result, the blade is only about 9in long. The habaki was made from brazed copper and the shira-saya was carved from a popular blank.

The picture to the left shows two more cable tantos in various stages of progress. The top one had some rough grinding done to it whereas the bottom one is straight from the forge. Only about 10% of the time is actually spent forging the blades. The rest of time is spent grinding, polishing and working on the habaki as well as on the saya and everything else.

Testing the Zowada Forced-Air Manifold

nospam@example.com (Niels Provos) — Fri, 03 Jul 2009 21:21:48 -0700

I had time to forge down the 2in pipe for the nozzle today which completed everything needed for the burner. Here is a video of the first test run. Propane and air can be mixed separately via the gate valves which should allow precise control over the atmosphere in the forge.

Making A Monkey Tool

nospam@example.com (Niels Provos) — Sat, 27 Jun 2009 14:23:45 -0700

I learned how to make a monkey tool today. Monkey tools can be used for dressing tenons. The basic procedure is as follows.
Take 1in square stock and chamfer the edges. Take a slot punch and move it about an 1in from the corner - this is the hammer end. Line the slot punch up very carefully, so that its straight and divides the stock in the middle. Hit it a couple times to get a registration. Now, get the stock nice and hot, align the slot punch with the registration, hit it hard three times, cool the slot punch in water, rotate it by 180 degrees and repeat. At some point, the slot punch is almost through, flip the stock over and use the slot punch to punch out the remaining piece of metal. Now, use a drift to open up the hole to the desired size. Start the drift from the other side of the slot. Doing this over the hardy hole is a good idea. With the slot still inserted, dress up the faces. Then chamfer the corners. Cut off the other side for the length of the tenon and drill a hole of the right size.
That's it. Out of the four holes I drifted only two came out sort of in the middle