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Forging and Cutting Teeth for Wolf's Tooth Pattern

Here is an experiment with forging the teeth; refining forged teeth with the bandsaw, and different cuts on the bandsaw.



Ps: Only the first two teeth remain just forged; the rest I destroyed with the bandsaw.
Categories: Forge Diaries
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Questing for the Wolf's Tooth Pattern

Forge Diaries: Episode 1 and Episode 3 all lightly touched on the Wolf's Tooth Pattern. Here is my latest experiment in the form of a small dagger:


I still need a few more experiments before I can cover the techniques in a video update. So, bear with me.

Feel free to ask questions below.
Categories: Forge Diaries
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Forge Diaries: Episode 5: Refining and Carburizing Wrought Iron

This episode shows techniques for refining wrought iron to give it finer grain. It also shows how to carburize wrought iron and then turn it into shear steel. Both of these techniques are combined to forge a sax knife. Enjoy!

Categories: Forge Diaries
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How to forge a sword: From start to finish!


Did you ever wonder how swords were made? My recent video series shows all the steps involved in making a sword. I start from scratch by heating and forging a piece of high-carbon steel into the form of a sword and finish by showing sharpening the sword and cutting exercises. The techniques are very similar to how swords were made for thousands of years. The video documentation is split up into four different parts - you can also go directly to the complete play list on how to forge a sword

In the first video, I take a flat piece of 1075 steel, heat it in the forge and forge in the tang and the tip of the sword. I then forge the bevels and the fuller. After checking that everything is straight and that I have achieved the right dimensions, I normalize the sword to relieve stress created by hammering it. The video shows how to make the sword blade hard by heat treating it - that is quenching it and then tempering the blade.


The second video shows to make the lower and upper guard as well as the pommel. I show how to establish the basic shape and spent a lot of time grinding the blade on a belt sander. This creates the correct geometry and reduces the weight significantly. It is important for the complete sword to be as light as possible since that makes it less strenuous to swing.


Now, I finish shaping the guards and pommel and use a laborious process to fit them perfectly to the shape of the tang. I also take a piece of wood and fit the tang by burning it through the wood. At the end of this video, all the pieces can be roughly assembled.


The final video shows how I create decoration with gold wire using a Koftgari-like process. The wooden core is wrapped with hemp cord and leather and finally everything is put together. I hot peen the tang over the pommel to create a strong mechanical connection. Finally, the sword is sharpened and put to use.


After watching these videos, you should have a very good understanding how the sword is made. The whole process took about 100 hours. The videos condensed this into about 40 minutes. Enjoy!!!
Categories: Hacking
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A Day at the Forge: A Study in Sound

A lot of people ask me about putting more emphasis on the "authentic" sounds that accompany working at the forge. My usual answer is that it can be damn loud. So, loud that it's difficult to talk with each other, especially when running a forced-air burner. The other day, I decided to take my day at the forge to demonstrate these sounds. You will hear the noise atmosphere from neighboring shops, the fan of the coal forge and the very loud forced-air burner. Enjoy.



The background music is "Passing Time" by Kevin MacLeod from Youtube's Audio Library. The video was shot in low light on a Blackmagic Camera using a Canon 17-55m f/2.8 lens. Audio recorded with an Audio-Technica BP4029 shotgun microphone on a Tascam DR-100 MkII. Editing and grading in Final Cut Pro X. Video and Music synchronization via PluralEyes.
Categories: Hacking
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Casting a forge-shell from Kast-O-Lite 30 LI

Here are some pictures of my recent forge rebuild. When I originally started to look into refractory concrete as an option, I noticed that there were not a lot of articles on the web describing the process of casting a forge shell from refractory concrete. While many of the steps are pretty straightforward and do not significantly differ from using regular concrete, some people might still find my experience with using Kast-O-Lite 30 LI useful. My need for a new forge arose after some extended forge welding and bloom consolidation caused the roof of my previous forge to cave in. After thinking of different ways to construct a new forge, I decided to go with refractory concrete as it can take more abuse than the kaowool based solution I had employed previously. Kast-O-Lite 30 LI seemed like it fit the bill with a maximum use temperature of 3000F which is not something I am likely to reach unless I am over boiling iron. For general forging, Kast-O-Lite 26 would have been better suited as it provides better heat insulation but I had the 30 LI concrete available. Here is an outline of the process:

The construction used five pieces of concrete: Two sides, one roof, and two pegs. Where the pieces met, I had to split the angle, so used 22.5 degrees on each side of the different pieces. The end result was going to be a shell that would support itself. The first step was creating the forms from 2x4 and some wooden boards. The forge itself is about 13in long, and about 9in high. To get the angles, I used a bandsaw with a swiveling table that I could dial to 22.5 degrees. The measurements that determines the spacing of the pieces were all done on the outside and piece of 2x4 was attached to the board with wood screws. Here is how they looked like.


Continue reading "Casting a forge-shell from Kast-O-Lite 30 LI"
Categories: News
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